Gemsfairenstock ski tour...by fair means!

Questo weekend gita di una sola giornata...ma anche in primavera con un po' di fortuna e un po' di sano "pepe in culo" si possono fare delle gran belle gite. La fortuna questa volta non sta solo nell'aver trovato della bella neve, ma anche nell'essere arrivati sul posto! Si perchè l'ultimo tratto del percorso va fatto in bus ma questo bus va anche prenotato...e nessuno dei tre ne ha la benchè minima idea. Forse la cosa sarebbe toccata a me visto che io ho proposto la gita...ma vabbè. Per fortuna troviamo altri tre che volevano fare la stessa gita e quindi il bus era già stato prenotato.

Arrivati ad Urnerboden la decisione che ci si pone è se prendere la funivia per i primi 600 e passa metri in modo da evitare un pendio che sembra avere veramente poca neve. All'inizio mi avevano quasi convinto a prendere la funivia, ma una volta vista la coda che c'era da fare per prenderla...ho ben pensato di andare su con gli sci! Solo uno del terzetto prende la funivia.

Effettivamente la salita non è poi questa gran cosa. Neve ghiacciata e diversi tratti in cui bisogna portare gli sci in mano. Ma per qualche arcano motivo siamo partiti in quinta (la quarta era già troppo lenta) e il sudore che ci cola dalla fronte sugli occhi non ci permette di vedere a pieno quanto pessima fosse la neve...almeno di mattina...Con un ritmo che ha fatto paura anche a me stesso siamo alla stazione di monte della funivia dopo circa 1h10m. Per 600m in se non sono poi pochi, ma in questi 600m ne abbiamo fatta di strada all'inizio e di zig zag per salire fin su. Quando finalmente arriviamo ad incontrare il terzo che aveva preso la funivia ci fermiamo per bere qualcosa...e la stanchezza già si fa sentire visto che probabilmente abbiamo corso troppo...ma la gita è finita qui vero?

La gita comincia qui...dopo 600m di salita

Già una gran sete!

Eh no, a dire il vero la gita comincia adesso. Dai 2000m circa dove siamo dobbiamo arrivare quasi a 3000m con un po' di strada in falso piano anche da fare. La salita procede senza grossi problemi su una traccia che viene presto ribattezzata come autostrada. Il tempo non è poi cosi' bello come lo davano le previsioni, ma forse è anche meglio cosi'. Essendo nuvoloso il sole non riesce a sciogliere la neve tanto in fretta, e in piu' siamo anche su un versante nord. L'unico tratto "delicato" è un piccolo scalino dove si passa su una cengia non larghissima per poi salire su per un tratto leggermente ripido. In realtà pero' anche questo tratto non presenta nessuna difficoltà visto che la neve è ancora molto buona.

Lo scalino visto dal basso

E dall'alto

Passato quello è tutto una passeggiata

Arrivati qui su comincio a sentire le gambe molto pesanti...eppure ho fatto solamente 1200m dalla partenza. Non che siano proprio pochi...ma di solito le mie gambe ci mettono molto di piu' per arrivare in queste condizioni. Sarà che ieri sono andato a fare speed-hiking con 15 chili sulle spalle per 400m di salita e discesa...ma molto probabilmente è perchè nel primo tratto della salita abbiamo spinto come i dannati. La soluzione è semplice...basta non andare avanti e lasciare andare qualcun'altro. Si perchè a me risulta sempre difficile riuscire a limitare la velocità anche quando sono stanco. Non vado proprio correndo ma tengo un ritmo abbastanza elevato quali che siano le mie condizioni fisiche. Quindi basta non andare davanti e sono automaticamente limitato :).

Eh queste si che sono discese...

Noi sulla neve e in valle già primavera inoltrata

La salita continua sempre con un pensiero alle gambe ma anche uno alla discesa che, a giudicare dalla neve, dovrebbe essere un vero e proprio spettacolo. Allo scoccare delle 3h20m incluse tutte le pause (quindi circa 3h di marcia) siamo in cima. La vista non è cosi' magnifica come potrebbe essere, ma non è che sto' qui a lamentarmi! Il Tödi e il Clariden solo per dirne due, anche se sono entrambe nelle nuvole. 

Li' dietro ci dovrebbe essere il Clariden

E li' dietro il Tödi

Nonostante il gran caldo nella salita ora fa abbastanza fresco e non vedo l'ora di scendere. Via le pelli, su la giacca, stringi gli scarponi e giu' di testa su una neve che almeno per i primi 300m è a dir poco fantastica! Poi non tanto piu' visto che diventa abbastanza pesante e non proprio piacevole...ma anche questo fa parte del fatto che la mia tecnica di sci va ancora moooolto migliorata. Intorno ai 2000m comincia a diventare il cosiddetto "sulz" e il divertimento vero comincia. All'inizio non volevo scendere fino a valle perchè ricordavo quando brutta fosse la neve durante la salita. Mi faccio convincere a scendere fino a valle con gli sci e mai decisione è stata piu' azzeccata. Sebbene in un breve tratto sia dovuto solo scivolare verso il basso in tutto il resto della discesa mi diverto come un bambino. Si scia su un sulz da panico e in mezzo ad alberi ed ostacoli sempre piu' stretti. Certo non si puo' sbagliare ma il controllo degli sci è abbastanza facile e quindi si va giu' senza pensarci troppo su! Davvero una bellissima discesa...per lo meno fino a quando non torniamo sulla strada e siamo costretti a togliere gli sci e camminare per ancora 20 minuti prima di poterci godere una bella birra ghiacciata!

E la soddisfazione piu' grande è che abbiamo fatto tutto by fair means...ovvero senza funivia! E cosi' dovrebbe sempre essere...

Back to Safiental for two really warm days of ski touring...never leave a job unfinished...err....

In January we already went to Safiental and at that time we managed to climb only one summit, Piz Tomül. Now we decide to go back there again, and finish the work! Spring is probably not the best season for this but and in fact Turrahus is only opened for just this last weekend when we are going...then they go on holiday.

Anyway, we start Saturday from Zurich and get to the bottom of the valley around 9:30 in the morning...which for spring time is probably already late. Conditions at the start of the route seem to be more appropriate for enjoying a cold beer on the terrace of the hut, or at least to ski up the hill with swimming shorts...but nevertheless we go. Despite the fact that the temperature is really warm the weather is not that nice, a bit hazy and light clouds cover the sky...and the sun...which is surely a bad thing. First reason being that you think (or at least we thought) that the sun would not be much of a problem...very stupid decision not to put the sun cream on. Anyway, we came here for ski touring and not for complaining so off we go aiming to the Taellihorn summit. There is no need to make new tracks and finding the route is quite easy since we can see the summit from almost the starting point. The snow also seems quite good and we expect a rather nice descent on sulz. Well the hut warden told us that there would even be powder on the top...but I think he was just trying to sell "his resort" the best he could.

Shortly after the beginnig...still lots of snow...

And it starts to get quite hot

It's warm but getting close to the summit it becomes a little bit chilly because of the wind and even more clouds seem to come in. There is absolutely no technical difficulty in reaching the summit, maybe only the very last section to the top where we have to ski on the ridge from the Rinderpinglueckli to the Taellihorn summit. 

On the ridge

Safiental is a really good touring destination, but probably in cold winter is better

Last meters to the top

After the usual bite and drink we prepare for descent. The first few hundred meters are absolutely wonderful. Really perfect sulz and amazing fun to ski down. But being the descent long enough we have to expect the snow to get heavier towards the bottom of the valley....and in fact so it does. It become heavier and heavier...and even heavier if possible...to the point that is almost feels like skiing in water. And it gets hot at the same time, so not exactly a pleasure to ski anymore. But the thought of an ice cold beer sitting on the terrace of the hut is enough of a motivation to keep on skiing down as fast as we can.

Once down at the hut we enjoy the afternoon sun sitting outside and having lots to drink (not only alcoholic stuff) and to eat. Then we even fall asleep on the benches right in the hottest hour of the afternoon! And having forgotten the sun cream means that my face would be roasted!

Another friend joins us in the evening and it is yet another wonderful night at Turrahus. Lots of fondue, lots of beer and hot chocolate with rum. Next day we are not going too high so drinking a few beers should not be a major problem.

For the next day the idea is to finally try and climb what we did not manage in January, the Baerenhorn. This time however is a wonderful day without clouds and wind and finding the route is surely a lot easier. Again the route follows the valley along the Rabiusa river and around the point 2034 it goes up on the left (facing the summit). Basically is the same route of the summer wanderweg.

Yes...this time we had a snowboarder with us!!! But she did quite well indeed!

Nice sunshine!

Getting close to P2803

There are so many summits and so many things to try...just not enough time!

Once above the steep bit the route keeps following a rather flat region that on the map is named Lengegga and from there up to point 2803 and then 2811 on the ridge before the summit. We wrongly thought that this was the actual summit, but we were clearly wrong! And so were a group of other skiers before and after us. Once on this sort of pre-summit we think about going back down and around and then up to the main summit, but hey...it's getting warm already and the snow is going to be super heavy again if we wait too long. So I start already preparing for the descent because I know that the snow is going to be almost perfect if we get down in the next 30 minutes or so...then it might start getting too late. I'm not really that much of an expert in snow conditions but in this case is quite easy because I have the experience from yesterday, and today is even warmer. The other two seem to be willing to enjoy the views and the nice sunshine a bit more. Which is surely a good idea, but I try to convince them that if they want to enjoy good snow we should start skiing down now.

Getting to the top

And finally on the top...we OK, not the Baerenhorn top, but for today that's enough!

Eventually I manage to convince them and off we go, enjoying a realle perfect sulz or hard snow almost "piste-like". Really lots and lots of fun! Only until we get to the bottom of the valley close to the river. Here is too flat and the snow already quite wet to keep on skiing. So we rather decide to put the skins back on and get back to the hut like that.

Even this time we did not really manage it to the real summit of Baerenhorn, but at least we got a lot closer than last time, and for next time we surely know the route very well! Nevertheless, a very enjoyable descent in an even better company!

Around Basodino for Easter ski touring

What do you do if the weather is really bad over Easter and you planned to go ski touring for 4 days?? Just go down to Ticino, where the sun is (or should) always shining! The plan for this three days ski touring was not really thought through...it was just made up on the go, but still with an excellent result.

The trip started on Saturday, but Friday was also a very nice day and I did not have to work. So why not keeping the leg moving a little bit? Me and my friend just decided to go to Engelberg and to skin up on the side of the piste for 1300m and then ski back down. Not that challenging to be honest but still good training. And the snow on the highest part of the resort (off piste, that's clear) is actually very nice!

Anyway, on Saturday we start the real trip going to Ossasco, in Ticino. The weather before the Gotthard is absolutely horrible...rain, dark clouds and mist all over the place. After the tunnel is not that much better, but at least is not raining and we can even see some patches of blue sky!

Destination for today is the capanna Cristallina. The walk up begins under the clouds in what seems to be a rather warm and humid day. This is now the fifth time I walk up the hut so I could pretty much do the whole route blind folded. But the tracks from the people going up yesterday make things even easier. After going through the forest we even manage to see the sun and lots of blue sky for a while! That's really true...weather forecast in this country are conservative...and when in doubt just go to Ticino where the weather will (more or less) always be nice! 

One of the few moments we could see the whole valley

The breach in the clouds does not last that long and we are soon again in the clouds. Sometimes they are so thick that is really hard to distinguish where the tracks are actually going. A couple of other brief breaks in the clouds allows to see the electricity pylons and to realize we are still on the correct route. Similarly to what happened in Silvretta the previous tour we just find the hut almost because we "hit the wall"...but the day is not over yet. Is just past 13:00 and we would not know what to do in the hut for so long...so why not aiming at some nearby peak. One of the group even proposes to leave the crampons and the ice axe at the hut to make the rucksack lighter...but my comment is that is all about training...we keep everything in and keep going :). The aim would be Cima di Lago but shortly after the hut I see that there is a nice ridge just next to the Passo della Cima di Lago so the plana changes immediately. We go up to the pass and just for fun try to climb the ridge with axes and crampons, but no rope. At the beginning is not that difficult but then it starts getting a little bit sharper and steeper. Until when I see a rather thin section with only snow. Due to the strong winds of last days the cornices are very big and is really tricky to say where the rocks finish...so without a rope is too risky to proceed and we down climb it. But on the other side of the pass we can still reach a little bump a bit higher than the rest to get our "summit feeling" for the day. Back to the pass, skis on and quickly back to the hut for hours of Mikado and Uno!

Up on the ridge

Next day is Sunday, Easter. What did you do over Easter? Well...we trained putting skins on and off the skis! I think this is a record, for sure my record...putting skins on and off the skis for 7 times!! Why that you might ask? Well, we just didn't want to get to the capanna Basodino too early and could also not climb Cristallina because of avalanche conditions and wind...so we had to find alternatives. First we go back to the Passo della Cima di Lago. Then we ski down on the Ghiacciaio di Valleggia on some very good powder snow. Afterwards back up to the Poncione di Val Piana. The ascend presents some technical difficulty and we need to mount the ski crampons. While going up there is a solo tourer going up to the same summits. He looks like a racer as he is really carrying little weight and with extremely light skis and boots. He goes up like nothing without even having the ski crampons...then disappears on the steepest side of the summits. 

The first descent

And again going up

Poncione di val Piana

Yes...the snow was that good!

From the summit we ski back down on the glacier, and this was for me the best descent of the day! Then what a surprise we skin back up to the Passo della Cima di Lago...someone said Dejavu??From the pass a short ski descent on the route up to the Cima di Lago...and then up to the second summit for today, Cima di Lago! This time we even have to do some walking with ski boots and ice axe, nice for a change! Then back down to the same point, and up again to the Cristallina hut and finally we start following the way to the capanna Basodino. Looking at the distance and altitude difference we think this is not going to take that long...but we were wrong. 

One of the only photo where I'm also in...

Cima di Lago is the white one in the middle

Going up to Cima di Lago

Last meters

A nice long descent just for us!!

Contouring the Lago Sfundau already takes longer than expected since we have to put the skins back on for the 6th time!!!!! Once up on the pass at P2474 we ski down what reveals itself as a rather demanding piece of skiing...steep and with not the best snow conditions...but somehow we manage and get down to the Lago Bianco...only to discover we need to put the skins on yet one more time!! From here the route follows the summer road down to the hut with some rather exposed traverse on debatable quality snow, but ski crampons make things a little bit easier. 


I'm not sure how long this actually took to go from one hut to the other but surely it was longer than expected. The capanna Basodino is not as new and modern as the Cristallina but looks a bit more like a mountain hut rather than a 4 stars hotel up in the mountains. And the warden there cooks really well...to the point that I manage to eat three plates of pizzoccheri plus two portions of tiramisu'.

Monday the weather is looking even better and therefore we decide to try and summit the Basodino. The ascent starts by first following the road towards the station of the big cable car and then turning left up in the couloir. Here the snow is very icy and there is even an avalanche that reduced the width of usable snow...so once again lots of kick turns. Once outside this couloir the route keeps going straight on following a rock band on the left hand side...until a point where it's possible to get above it. From here going slightly up and down another couple of times the route points at the shallowest part of the big slope coming down directly from the summit. In good visibility there is really no risk of getting lost as the route is pretty obvious. Once on the main glacier slope the route does hardly any kick turn (only the beginning is a bit steep) until under the summit.

Windy...

...but really good weather!

Almost on the glacier

A tiny speck of dust against immense whiteness...

The summit

Here it looks like the north part of the ridge is more interesting, since there are more rocks. But it's probably not advisable without a rope so we follow the standard winter route that goes up on the south ridge. A little bit we can still progress with the skis but then they have to be left at the "deposit" and keep going with crampons and axe. Now it feels like an easy mountaineering tour because some easy rock climbing, ridge walking and even short sections of not so steep snow fields have to be crossed. All in all is a nice climb...but bloody hell it's cold! The sun is shining like it was middle of summer but the wind is really strong and the temperature plus windchill is most likely around -25°C. I need to stop a couple of times to vigorously shake my arms and force the blood into the fingers. 

After a bit of fighting, more against the elements than against the mountain, we get to the top! Really a nice view! I've never been so high in this part of the Alps and it's difficult to recognize most of the summits around, and there is a lot of them!

Beginning of the climb

Yeah!!

Good to finally use those crampons and axe!

Almost like in the Himalaya 

On the top of Basodino, looking south.

Our stay on the summit is not that long. It's rather cold, and we know there is still a decent amount of distance before getting back down to the valley. So we get down as fast as possible and then starting skiing towards the Kastellücke. On the stretch of glacier between the summit and the Kastellücke the snow conditions are simply perfect. Pure powder where every turn becomes like poetry, even though the style is not the best one :). A couple of breaks to admire this beauty and then we start ascending shortly to the Kastellücke. Once again a short but rather exposed traverse...that's all good training. 

At the Kastellücke we are again at the border with Italy and in the couloir going down to Italy the snow is again really good and enjoyable! Once down into Italy we need to turn right and follow the valley until the Passo San Giacomo. I have to be honest in saying that I was not expecting anything like this. The landscapes we see in this remote corner of Italy are simply magnificient. Everything seems so remote and we have the feeling of being completely alone, even though we can still see some other tourers. Some of the mountains around almost look like the Himalaya and I start feeling the need to go for more "appropriate" alpine tours as soon as possible in the summer.

The best descent of the trip

Poetry can take many forms...even turns in the snow...

Down to Italy!!

Happy people!

Feels like immersed in the wilderness

That looks really inviting! Pizzo San Giacomo

One rather big avalanche shortly before the end of the descent

Once at the Passo San Giacomo the last bit of the descent starts but this time the snow is really bad. Crusty and very difficult to ski. I manage to turn but in all honesty I'm not really having much fun. At least avoiding the trees and the big avalanche put some more challenge in the descent which becomes in the end very interesting having also to cross a river.

After 8 hours from the start we reach All'Acqua and the end of this wonderful three days of skiing. Once again the weather forecast have been proven to be too conservative and relying on the good old Ticino confirmed itself as the best choice where the weather is uncertain!