Steinadler route on south face of Wiwannihorn...last climb of the year

November keeps up with its record high temperature reputation...still warm and dry. So even if my skis are itching to see some snow again we decide to try the possibly very last climb for this season. Bergseehütte last week was fantastic...how to find anything better? I've been looking for a while at the Wiwannihorn and at the different climbing possibilities up there. From a report of a few days before it looks like there is no snow, so we decide to give it a try!

The way up to the hut is rather long, starting in Ausserberg...almost 1500m. Plus our rucksacks are rather heavy with all the climbing gear and the two double ropes. So why not making it a little bit more challenging? There is a via ferrata going up to the hut so we decide to try that one. It says it's K4-K5 so probably not the easiest. Before the beginning of the via ferrata there is quite a lot to walk along the valley and then up on its steep sides. It's very well marked with blue and white signs and finding it is not a problem at all.

On the via ferrata

As I said...some parts were quite cool!

It was a very long time since my last via ferrata and I have to say that after all the climbing and mountaineering of those years this felt really easy. There are a couple of sections where a bit more "strength" is required or where is slightly more exposed, but nothing to worry about. There is also not much variety to it, as it is basically consisting of walking up steps bolted into the rock...all the time! Some time you get to do a nice traverse but apart from that is always the same. Anyway, surely a lot more fun than simply walking up on the footpath! With the relatively heavy rucksack it felt rather like doing squats or lounges in the gym, which is always good training!

Sunset views from the hut when we arrive are simply fantastic...a pity we did not come up here a couple of weeks before when the autumn colors on the three were a lot more vivid. Good to know for next year!

That is the view at the end of the via ferrata...

Sunset

The Dom from this perspective looks majestic

In the morning of Sunday we start relatively late as it does not make sense to start early and freeze our asses off on the very cold rocks. At approximately 9:00 we start the first pitch of the Steinadler route. Rock is rather cold and the sun is still covered by the thick morning clouds. Wind is howling, but at least we'll be soon protected by the south face. Hey, wasn't the weather supposed to be nice and warm?? In any case we cannot really complain, climbing such a route in the middle of November is in itself something you don't often get to do!

First three pitches are really easy, then comes the "grass traverse" and then the real fun starts. Finding the route is always very easy, and all the belays are bolted with a chain connecting the two bolts...just like the English like it ;). The crux pitch of 5c, which is the 6th pitch, is quite cool. First you climb up an easy slab, then a rather exposed traverse and then yet another very cool slab where some balance would be very beneficial! I have some issues on the traverse, but it's only my fault as I'm trying to traverse slightly above the bolts...instead of staying below them!

At the end of the crux pitch

Another rope team following us

On the last part of the ridge...proper mountaineering style!

After the crux pitch there is only another 5a and then the rest of the route can be easily climbed in mountain boots. The "proper" route finishes at the same point where the route Verbogene Tänze finishes, which is were the rock ridge becomes flat. At this point is possible to leave the route and easily walk to the summit...but the rock ridge that keeps on going looks absolutel far too cool! It's graded at 3c more or less and it seems like really cool mountaineering exercise with big boots. So we decide to take the chance of doing this very last bit of rock climbing before the snow comes...and never a decision was better. It takes just an hour to climb the whole ridge and get to the top, and I must say the climbing is really fantastic! Never too difficult, but in some points also not trivial, and climbing with the mountain boots is an absolute pleasure. I could probably climb this sort of stuff for hours and hours without feeling tired, bored...or even hungry and thirsty!

A shame that at the top the clouds are covering most of the views, but once again in the mid of November we should not even be up here...without snow!

View from the top...not the best because of the clouds

View towards Brig, with the ridge we just did on the left

In approximately one hour we are back at the hut and then taking a lift from the very kind hut warden back in Ausserberg before it gets dark. I guess now the climbing/mountaineering season is properly finished...so time to get the skis ready to go and hoping for a good winter!