Altmann (...again???) this time via the East Ridge

Partly due to the weather forecast, uncertain on the higher mountains, and also partly because I only had Sunday free...I decide to go once again to the Altmann, but this time via the East Ridge. Via Kletterportal I find someone that comes with me, which is good!

From the topo it looks quite easy, but we still decide to take with us several friends and nuts just to practice using them a little bit. 

Approach walk is similar to the one I did one month ago, except that this time from the Zwillingpass we traverse a bit to the east to get directly at the bottom of the ridge. In all honesty, while getting there, the ridge looks actually quite steep...but this is only an "optical" effect which is quite normal. Mountains most of the times look steeper than they actually are from the distance...and when you get close they looks much less steep. Sometimes...they look even steeper when you get close to them...and then you might have a problem!!

View of the Churfirsten

There it is...for the moment not in the clouds

The beginning of the ridge...just before the clouds came...

A few minutes (OK...a bit longer than that) to prepare and then we start. In the meanwhile clouds are surrounding us...and they will never leave us until we get back down to the base of the mountain. I take the lead of the first pitch and it become immediately clear that the climbing is not difficult...but there are not that many bolts...even though it's quite easy to integrate with nuts, slings and eventually even friends. At the beginning route finding is not really an issue. Sometimes is a bit dubious but a careful look up high is enough to see where the next bolt is. The stands consist all of one single large ring. For sure that single ring would hold a very large weight...but nevertheless we try whenever possible to integrate a second piece of protection and then to link the two. Unfortunately my climbing partner drops one of his friends while doing this...maybe one of you will find it!

Me on the second pitch

On the 3rd pitch...I think!

The second pitch is the most difficult one and we both have the impression that the III+ grade reported on the topo is a little bit low. Surely the climb is always easy, but I'd say is closer to a IV in places...even though these differences are sometimes down to the personal judgement. I get a bit envious that my climbing partner gets to lead the second, hardest, pitch...but I get my "revenge" shortly afterwards. The beginning of the 5th pitch is, in fact, the nicest one. Up to the third bolt one has to climb on a rather narrow ridge with quite a drop on the left side. The feeling is really good! However, after the third bolt on this pitch the route goes to the right and it basically becomes a T5 path...After spending a very long time looking for the stand I just make one myself using two friends (always good to practice this kind of things). 

Me on the 5th pitch

After this pitch we start walking together to try and see where the route continues. The terrain is really easy now and having fixed points in between is not really needed. Finally after a long search we spot a bolt and we know the route continues that way. This is actually the end of the 6th pitch. One more pitch to go and we finish the rock climbing part. Again there is no stand at the end of the 7th pitch but for a good reason. The pitch finishes on a terrace with a huge spike that can be easily used as an anchor point. 

From now on is only walking straight up following the ridge over a series of large and comfortable steps (mainly covered in grass). This time there is no view from the summit because we it's all still covered in clouds. The time to eat something and we start descending following the normal route. Without snow and ice is a bit easier...but still not really a walk in the park. Taking care at where you put your feet is always good. Once the Altmannsattel is reached is just walking walking walking back to Wildhaus.

A really nice trip! Unfortunately not many pictures taken...but in the end it was all grey because of the clouds. It took a lot longer than expected to do the rock climbing part, but mainly because of route finding issues. Not difficult, but quite nice to get some training in being "exposed" and to train in using friends and nuts...and also slings. Now I've done this mountain twice in a month time...so I think I will take a break for a while :)...but I will come back for sure because there are several other nice routes especially on the south face.