Around Basodino for Easter ski touring

What do you do if the weather is really bad over Easter and you planned to go ski touring for 4 days?? Just go down to Ticino, where the sun is (or should) always shining! The plan for this three days ski touring was not really thought through...it was just made up on the go, but still with an excellent result.

The trip started on Saturday, but Friday was also a very nice day and I did not have to work. So why not keeping the leg moving a little bit? Me and my friend just decided to go to Engelberg and to skin up on the side of the piste for 1300m and then ski back down. Not that challenging to be honest but still good training. And the snow on the highest part of the resort (off piste, that's clear) is actually very nice!

Anyway, on Saturday we start the real trip going to Ossasco, in Ticino. The weather before the Gotthard is absolutely horrible...rain, dark clouds and mist all over the place. After the tunnel is not that much better, but at least is not raining and we can even see some patches of blue sky!

Destination for today is the capanna Cristallina. The walk up begins under the clouds in what seems to be a rather warm and humid day. This is now the fifth time I walk up the hut so I could pretty much do the whole route blind folded. But the tracks from the people going up yesterday make things even easier. After going through the forest we even manage to see the sun and lots of blue sky for a while! That's really true...weather forecast in this country are conservative...and when in doubt just go to Ticino where the weather will (more or less) always be nice! 

One of the few moments we could see the whole valley

The breach in the clouds does not last that long and we are soon again in the clouds. Sometimes they are so thick that is really hard to distinguish where the tracks are actually going. A couple of other brief breaks in the clouds allows to see the electricity pylons and to realize we are still on the correct route. Similarly to what happened in Silvretta the previous tour we just find the hut almost because we "hit the wall"...but the day is not over yet. Is just past 13:00 and we would not know what to do in the hut for so long...so why not aiming at some nearby peak. One of the group even proposes to leave the crampons and the ice axe at the hut to make the rucksack lighter...but my comment is that is all about training...we keep everything in and keep going :). The aim would be Cima di Lago but shortly after the hut I see that there is a nice ridge just next to the Passo della Cima di Lago so the plana changes immediately. We go up to the pass and just for fun try to climb the ridge with axes and crampons, but no rope. At the beginning is not that difficult but then it starts getting a little bit sharper and steeper. Until when I see a rather thin section with only snow. Due to the strong winds of last days the cornices are very big and is really tricky to say where the rocks finish...so without a rope is too risky to proceed and we down climb it. But on the other side of the pass we can still reach a little bump a bit higher than the rest to get our "summit feeling" for the day. Back to the pass, skis on and quickly back to the hut for hours of Mikado and Uno!

Up on the ridge

Next day is Sunday, Easter. What did you do over Easter? Well...we trained putting skins on and off the skis! I think this is a record, for sure my record...putting skins on and off the skis for 7 times!! Why that you might ask? Well, we just didn't want to get to the capanna Basodino too early and could also not climb Cristallina because of avalanche conditions and wind...so we had to find alternatives. First we go back to the Passo della Cima di Lago. Then we ski down on the Ghiacciaio di Valleggia on some very good powder snow. Afterwards back up to the Poncione di Val Piana. The ascend presents some technical difficulty and we need to mount the ski crampons. While going up there is a solo tourer going up to the same summits. He looks like a racer as he is really carrying little weight and with extremely light skis and boots. He goes up like nothing without even having the ski crampons...then disappears on the steepest side of the summits. 

The first descent

And again going up

Poncione di val Piana

Yes...the snow was that good!

From the summit we ski back down on the glacier, and this was for me the best descent of the day! Then what a surprise we skin back up to the Passo della Cima di Lago...someone said Dejavu??From the pass a short ski descent on the route up to the Cima di Lago...and then up to the second summit for today, Cima di Lago! This time we even have to do some walking with ski boots and ice axe, nice for a change! Then back down to the same point, and up again to the Cristallina hut and finally we start following the way to the capanna Basodino. Looking at the distance and altitude difference we think this is not going to take that long...but we were wrong. 

One of the only photo where I'm also in...

Cima di Lago is the white one in the middle

Going up to Cima di Lago

Last meters

A nice long descent just for us!!

Contouring the Lago Sfundau already takes longer than expected since we have to put the skins back on for the 6th time!!!!! Once up on the pass at P2474 we ski down what reveals itself as a rather demanding piece of skiing...steep and with not the best snow conditions...but somehow we manage and get down to the Lago Bianco...only to discover we need to put the skins on yet one more time!! From here the route follows the summer road down to the hut with some rather exposed traverse on debatable quality snow, but ski crampons make things a little bit easier. 


I'm not sure how long this actually took to go from one hut to the other but surely it was longer than expected. The capanna Basodino is not as new and modern as the Cristallina but looks a bit more like a mountain hut rather than a 4 stars hotel up in the mountains. And the warden there cooks really well...to the point that I manage to eat three plates of pizzoccheri plus two portions of tiramisu'.

Monday the weather is looking even better and therefore we decide to try and summit the Basodino. The ascent starts by first following the road towards the station of the big cable car and then turning left up in the couloir. Here the snow is very icy and there is even an avalanche that reduced the width of usable snow...so once again lots of kick turns. Once outside this couloir the route keeps going straight on following a rock band on the left hand side...until a point where it's possible to get above it. From here going slightly up and down another couple of times the route points at the shallowest part of the big slope coming down directly from the summit. In good visibility there is really no risk of getting lost as the route is pretty obvious. Once on the main glacier slope the route does hardly any kick turn (only the beginning is a bit steep) until under the summit.

Windy...

...but really good weather!

Almost on the glacier

A tiny speck of dust against immense whiteness...

The summit

Here it looks like the north part of the ridge is more interesting, since there are more rocks. But it's probably not advisable without a rope so we follow the standard winter route that goes up on the south ridge. A little bit we can still progress with the skis but then they have to be left at the "deposit" and keep going with crampons and axe. Now it feels like an easy mountaineering tour because some easy rock climbing, ridge walking and even short sections of not so steep snow fields have to be crossed. All in all is a nice climb...but bloody hell it's cold! The sun is shining like it was middle of summer but the wind is really strong and the temperature plus windchill is most likely around -25°C. I need to stop a couple of times to vigorously shake my arms and force the blood into the fingers. 

After a bit of fighting, more against the elements than against the mountain, we get to the top! Really a nice view! I've never been so high in this part of the Alps and it's difficult to recognize most of the summits around, and there is a lot of them!

Beginning of the climb

Yeah!!

Good to finally use those crampons and axe!

Almost like in the Himalaya 

On the top of Basodino, looking south.

Our stay on the summit is not that long. It's rather cold, and we know there is still a decent amount of distance before getting back down to the valley. So we get down as fast as possible and then starting skiing towards the Kastellücke. On the stretch of glacier between the summit and the Kastellücke the snow conditions are simply perfect. Pure powder where every turn becomes like poetry, even though the style is not the best one :). A couple of breaks to admire this beauty and then we start ascending shortly to the Kastellücke. Once again a short but rather exposed traverse...that's all good training. 

At the Kastellücke we are again at the border with Italy and in the couloir going down to Italy the snow is again really good and enjoyable! Once down into Italy we need to turn right and follow the valley until the Passo San Giacomo. I have to be honest in saying that I was not expecting anything like this. The landscapes we see in this remote corner of Italy are simply magnificient. Everything seems so remote and we have the feeling of being completely alone, even though we can still see some other tourers. Some of the mountains around almost look like the Himalaya and I start feeling the need to go for more "appropriate" alpine tours as soon as possible in the summer.

The best descent of the trip

Poetry can take many forms...even turns in the snow...

Down to Italy!!

Happy people!

Feels like immersed in the wilderness

That looks really inviting! Pizzo San Giacomo

One rather big avalanche shortly before the end of the descent

Once at the Passo San Giacomo the last bit of the descent starts but this time the snow is really bad. Crusty and very difficult to ski. I manage to turn but in all honesty I'm not really having much fun. At least avoiding the trees and the big avalanche put some more challenge in the descent which becomes in the end very interesting having also to cross a river.

After 8 hours from the start we reach All'Acqua and the end of this wonderful three days of skiing. Once again the weather forecast have been proven to be too conservative and relying on the good old Ticino confirmed itself as the best choice where the weather is uncertain!

Skitour from Monbiel over to Silvretta and down to Guarda...a wonderful traverse with skis!

After two weeks of full sunshine at the weekend comes the bad weather...well that's not a new! Nevertheless...shit happens but when it does look cool anyway! And afterall I don't really trust the weather forecast that much so we just go and see what happens. After spending a few hours looking at the map and trying different options only to find out that the huts are all booked, we finally decide to go up to the Silvretta hut. And from there...well, we'll see what the weather allows.

Beginning of the route is from the parking place in Monbiel...further is not allowed to drive. Snow conditions don't look that great and in fact we have to walk for a while before we find enough snow. The route follows the road and then the foot path all along the valley. Rather flat one and sometimes even going downhill. Route goes on without problems until almost the end of the valley, at the last barn. 

Beginning of the valley

Weather is not that good but we are all very happy nonetheless!

From here the way up to the hut follows a rather sharp "ridge" on debatable quality snow which involves lots of kick turns. I probably did more kick turns in this single piece of uphill as in the whole season! But still, very good training. At the end of this very sharp part a series of sign posts starts which indicate the directions to the hut...even with the azimut angle on them! Quite useful if you are in the fog...We are almost in the fog as a matter of fact but it's easy to see nevertheless. At the beginning of the uphill the sun even started to shine but now it's getting more and more cloudy and the views around are really limited. However is bloody hot so is probably not a bad thing that the sun is not shining!

Pointing the steep ridge

After uncountable kick turns we made it!

View back in the valley

The route follows the Galturtälli until point 2449 and then the last hundred meters down to the hut. On the last part of the way up however we have to fight against snow sticking like glue to our skins and even the way down is not really a pleasure. But the fog is now so thick that even in perfect virgin powder it would have been tricky to ski down. Finally we find the hut almost because we hit the door :).

Atmosphere in the hut is one of the best I can remember in all the years I've been sleeping in huts. There is a group of Italians, strangely not so loud, a group of English people and one of swiss. But the most interesting thing is this. There is woman that came up to the hut on her own with snow shoes. She was lucky enough to find the sun glasses that one of my ski touring partners lost on the way up so we started talking together. Then she sat with us for dinner because we were only three people at the table. Even though most of the conversation goes on in Swiss German, of which I don't really understand that much, we have a really nice time. Until when one of my touring partners self invites himself for dinner at the place of this woman we met in the hut, who also lives in Zurich. And she says "yes of course...we are going to cook pasta alla norma!". At that time I thought she was a little bit joking maybe but no, she was serious! And in fact on the way back from the mountains on Sunday we went to her place for dinner and again a very nice evening all the four of us! I've always believed until now that Swiss people are a bit conservative and that is probably also true...on average. But as for absolutely everything you just cannot generalize. Not all Swiss people are conservative and "close" to meet other people because this one was the exact opposite. Even me being Italian had to struggle a bit with this idea, and I surely learnt something from the whole experience.

But anyway, back to the ski tour. The morning after the plan is to try the Silvrettahorn and then go down all the way to Guarda by traversing the glacier. Part of the route I already did a couple of years ago with snow shoes when I climbed Piz Buin. In the morning we start around 7:30 or a bit earlier and it's rather cold...windy...and the snow is blown in your face. Nice! It's like being in winter again even though spring has again officially started. We follow the way up to the glacier and we are welcome by one of the best sun rises over the mountains of the winter season...truly spectacular in my opinion. 

In the morning

And there you go...here comes the sun!

Having good company is the most important thing!

Absolutely spectacular...this is my idea of wellness!!

Going up on the glacier is not really a problem, mainly because we can follow the tracks of other people. There is probably 20cm of new snow so breaking tracks would have not been so tough, but hey...with tracks is always less tiring! The tracks follow the glacier on the left hand side, facing the Silvrettahorn and basically point to the bottom of that mountain. Once we get under it we decide it is not a good idea to go up because the slope up to it is over 35° 40° steep. Which is not that bad with crampons and axe but the wind has been blowing from the back of it so at the top of the ridge there might be some big accumulation of snow that can be rather dangerous! I can see how much the wind is blowing by looking at the ski tracks. After less than 20 minutes they are already fully covered again because of the wind blown snow.

In the sun

Silvrettahorn is the one in the coulds

Weather is still holding

On the way up to the pass

That was one of the moments of best visibility on the high part of the glacier

So we decide only to go up to Silvrettapass passing very close to the Egghorn and then follow the rocky ridge until we are under the Signalhorn. At this point we are once again surrounded by clouds and orientation is not that easy. Wind is blowing even harder now and it feels rather cold. What are you doing up here someone might ask? Well what are you doing on your sofa I might ask. This is surely a bit tiring physically but is the absolute best relaxation your mind can have...my idea of "soul wellness"!

Luckily we can see the group of italians ahead of us that is also descending down to Guarda. Without taking the skins off we keep on going down on the glacier La Cudera until we reach point P2583 under Plan Mezdi. Here the descent starts...and what a descent!!

Beginning of the descent...still not steep enough

Small break on the way down

Yeah! Fresh powder just for us!

There is 20cm of new snow on a very hard bottom which makes one of the best descent I can remember this season. It's quite easy to turn and nice to float on the new snow, even though from time to time you can easily hit a rock or a piece of very hard ice under the snow. But the skis are tool and are supposed to be used! The whole descent down to the Chamanna Tuoi is really good, sometimes even beyond 30° but always quite safe. From that point onwards is all about following the path (sometimes even marked with flags) which is at the beginning rather flat. After some "walking" with skis on the feet it becomes steep enough to ski it down and to have some fun in racing each other at the corners...but the snow becomes less and less until we are literally carving on grass, and the last few meters down to Guarda have to be walked without skis.

In the forest

Still in the forest, with still good snow

Hmm...I might have to rewaxe my skis now...

That's all folks...now we walk!

One of the best tours I remember in the whole winter season. Wonderful company, wonderful experience, wonderful views and snow conditions...only a bit more sun was missing, but you can never have all that you want! More than 24Km of distance and more than 2000m of total altitude gain...not bad :)

What did I learn from this experience? This:

Life is short.
Break the rules.
Forgive quickly,
kiss slowly, love truly,
laugh uncontrollably
and never regret
anything that made
you smile.